*The view of Liberty Square from Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall in Taipei, Taiwan*

I awoke suddenly, bleary and disoriented, 36,000 feet above Taiwan.

A soothing “ding” chimed overhead as the captain came on the loudspeaker.

“Ladies and Gentlemen, in a few short moments we’ll be arriving at Taipei’s Taoyuan International Airport.”

I sighed, expending immense effort to open both my eyes and the window shade after a fitful “night” of sleep, and was met with a sprawl of twinkling lights below and a hint of sunrise.

A smile immediately sprang to my face.

5:30am. Taipei.

I had taken off from New York City more than 16 hours ago, and I still had another 9 hour flight to Australia ahead of me that evening.

But over the next 17 hours, I planned to traipse around this foreign city by train and on foot, armed with nothing but my trusty map, the determined and excited nature of a well-traveled explorer, and the entire Mandarin language downloaded in my pocket (thanks to Google Translate).

It still might be one of the wildest travel days of my life, and it took a lot of planning that I want to share with you.

So if you, too, find yourself with a flight path that contains a multi-hour layover in Taiwan, this is how you should spend a day in Taipei.

QUICK NAVIGATION

Quick Tips
Arrival
How to Get from Taoyuan Airport (TPE) to Taipei City
Stop 1: Longshan Temple
Stop 2: Chiang Kai Shek
Stop 3: 2/28 Peace Park
Stop 4: Dongmen Market
Stop 5: Daan Park
Stop 6 (option 1): Jianguo Holiday Flower & Jade Market (Saturdays & Sundays + Holidays Only)
Stop 6 (option 2): Wasteria Tea House
LUNCH:
- Option 1: Plants Eatery (Plant-based and GF)
- Option 2: Din Tai Fung (the OG)
Stop 7: Taipei 101 (metro)
Stop 8: Elephant Mountain
Stop 9: Night Markets (metro)
Last Stop: The Airport! Massage, shower, dinner

Quick Tips

This guide is meant to maximize your time by taking you to as many significant sites as comfortably possible during your layover so you can feel like you really saw Taipei, even in a day. There are many notable landmarks that are absolutely worth visiting on a longer trip to Taipei (the Beitou Hot Springs, Dalongdong Bao An Temple, Confucius Temple, and Dihua Street come to mind), but which would take too much time away from your itinerary here. I omitted museums because, while they’re worthwhile, they do take a fair amount of time to view artifacts of history in one place, instead of learning history while visiting multiple sights and experiencing everyday life on the streets of modern Taiwan (my preference). I prioritized one of each category (i.e. parks, temples, night markets), but there are certainly PLENTY to choose from. Feel free to customize based on what’s important to you!
Wear sneakers — I’m all for looking cute, but you’ll be clocking upwards of 12 miles if you hit everything and do some wandering (oh, and if you decide to hike Elephant Mountain — which I highly recommended)
I recommend sparing yourself the back pain and storing your non-valuable carry on luggage in the airport lockers. NT $120 ($4.20 USD) bought me a whole day. Travel as light as possible today. Like I said, 12+ miles.
If you didn’t bring New Taiwanese Dollars (NT) with you, make sure to grab some cash from the ATM, which will usually give you the best rate over Money Exchange kiosks (but make sure your bank doesn’t charge crazy fees for this! I use Chase so I don’t have to worry about that). Most of the markets you’ll visit and many street vendors won’t accept cards, so it’s a good idea to carry cash--of course, anything can happen anywhere, but Taipei is generally a very safe city if you’re worried about pickpockets!
Download the entire Mandarin language (#mindblown) to use offline using the Google Translate app if you don’t already speak it. It will save you more than once, and can help facilitate some pretty cool interactions (like using it to ask about jade pieces at the market).
This is just a sample itinerary of what I did -- feel free to download and use this custom Google My Maps to create your own, below! I highlighted spots of interest and cool places to eat so you’ll always be able to find the next destination if you decide to get (intentionally) lost when you inevitably stumble upon a cool market, restaurant, or landmark.

At the Airport

Arrival

When we landed at 5:30am, I found a comfy spot on the floor of the airport and finalized my itinerary while I waited for breakfast.

Around 6, I used my Priority Pass (that comes with my Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card - the best travel card, hands down) to enter one of the airport lounges for a hot breakfast.

Satisfied enough by the unidentifiable bowl of hot mush I slurped down, I headed to customs and immigration. My next flight wasn’t for 17 hours, so I had to get a temporary visa to explore the city for the day.

My checked bags would meet me at my final destination--Brisbane, Australia--which meant my plan to change into something more respectable than airport-chic (read: yoga pants and sneakers) had been thwarted.

My carry on bags, however, presented another issue. I had my laptop, camera, and other expensive gear in there, and I knew I’d feel more comfortable carrying them with me.

Airport Luggage Lockers

Once I was through customs & immigration, I put all my non-essential stuff in a locker, took a picture of my locker number, receipt, and access code (because of COURSE I would lose it), and set off with the enormous mistake of carrying about 20 lbs of my possessions on my back all day.

All in all, the locker set me back $200 NT ($5.60 USD) for the day.

Transportation: How to Get From Taoyuan Airport (TPE) to Taipei City Using Public Transport (MRT High Speed Train)

To be totally honest, even a seasoned New Yorker like me was a little nervous to navigate from the airport to the city by myself, since this was my first time in a country that uses Chinese characters and a language I don’t even remotely speak.

However, Taipei has an impressive and efficient public transportation infrastructure, so the whole process was actually much easier than I anticipated. And if you don’t want to deal with it, you can always take Uber there too!

Arrival at Taipei Airport

MTR Express Train Token

Navigating the Train Schedule (ask for help!)

TRAIN

To get from Taoyuan Airport (TPE) to the actual city of Taipei is fairly easy, but if you need to ask for directions, people are very nice!

For NT $55 (Taiwan Dollars -- about $2 USD), you can take the Taoyuan Airport MRT purple express train and arrive in the city (Taipei Main Station) within about 30 minutes (the blue commuter train takes about 50). Depending on where your flight arrives, you may need to take a shuttle bus to the train, but the Information desk can help you figure that out. I promise, it’s easier than it sounds.

There are two types of train: express, and commuter. Express (purple) takes about 35 minutes to get to downtown Taipei, and Commuter (blue) takes about 50 minutes.

Once you clear customs and immigration, go down to B3 near Cart 11 and find the entrance of MRT right in front of the fare gates and the THSR entrance on the right-hand side. You should see signs for the “MRT / To High Speed Rail.”

If you haven’t already pre-purchased your tickets (with SIM card), you’ll need to buy your Easycard metro card here ($100 NT non-refundable deposit). Your first stop will be Taipei Main Station (station number 160 on the blue or purple line).

(Side Note: I was directed to take the U-Bus to the train instead of walking, which took about 20 minutes--it all just depends on where you exit the airport! I told the bus driver I was going to the THSR Taoyuan Station and he made sure I got off at the right stop.)

I recommend pre-booking your one-way or round trip MRT tickets here. It also comes with a SIM card so you can navigate the city easier! Pick up the pre-booked SIM card at the Unilite Traveler kiosk.

Note: the MRT trains are only available from 6am to midnight, so if you’re planning to travel outside of those times, I recommend Uber. Good news is, if you’re reading this, you’re probably planning on a day trip!

The Ultimate One-Day Itinerary
for a Taipei Layover

STOP 01.

Longshan Temple

Since your flight probably landed early in the morning, the best place to start your itinerary is at Longshan Temple, which opens around 6am (and is less than 10 minutes from Taipei Main Station).

Longshan Temple is more than 300 years old (built in 1738), and has been rebuilt a number of times after it sustained damage over the years from earthquakes, typhoons, and even WWII bombing.

Fun Fact: Check out the unique bronze pillars outside the front hall and the incense holders just outside the main hall, paying close attention to the handles. They depict Western-looking fools from “The Fool Holding Up the Sky” (a nod to the Dutch who occupied Taiwan in the 1600s).

It’s one of the most visited temples in Taiwan, so it’s a great place to get an early start and beat the crowds. Best times are at 6am, 8am, and 5pm when worshippers gather for hypnotic chanting.

Address: No. 211, Guangzhou Street, Wanhua District, Taipei City, Taiwan 10853

How to get there: Take the Blue MRT line from Taipei Main Station to Longshan Temple station, where signs will point you to the temple.

Cost: Free (donations encouraged)

chiang-kai-shek-memorial-hall-taipei-layover

Stop 02.

The National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
(國立中正紀念堂)

Now begins the walking portion!

Next, head to National Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall by walking down Aiguo West Road for 23 mins (this is a great use of your SIM card!) or hopping on the green Songshan-Xindian Line (direction: Xindian Station) for 18 minutes, then get off at Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Station.

If you decided to skip Longshan, you can get to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall from Taipei Main Station by taking the red Tamsui-Xinyi Line (in the direction of Daan Station) 2 stops to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Station (again, never hesitate to ask for directions at the info booth!).

This station will spit you out at the red-pillared steps of the National Theater, at the Southwestern edge of the square.

Walk down Zhongshan South Road to enter the square through the Gate of Integrity for the best view.

The Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall is one of the most popular sites in Taipei, constructed in memory of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, former President of the Republic of China. Inside, you’ll find an impressive two-story-high statue of the General (think: the Lincoln Monument in DC). To get to the Hall itself, climb the 89 stairs (one for every year of his life), and turn around to look back at the beauty of Democracy Plaza (pictured below).

Be sure to catch the changing of the guard every hour on the hour, starting at 9am! (This is also a great place for a bathroom break since the bathrooms are clean, free, and publicly available).

The Memorial Hall sits at the east end of the square that was renamed for its central role in the democratization of Taiwan (Democracy Plaza). It served as a popular mass gathering spot and was home to many of the pro-democracy demonstrations and events that led to the first popular elections in 1996.

Beyond its history, the square itself is an impressively beautiful sight, and houses not only the Memorial Hall, but also the annual lantern festival and the National Theater (south) and National Concert Hall (north). Most days, you can watch performers and students alike practicing their dance routines and drills in the square (the reflective windows don’t hurt for practice either!)

Address: No. 21, Zhongshan S. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City, Taiwan

How to get there: Take the MRT to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Station, where signs will point you to the temple. You can also walk from Longshan Temple down Aiguo West Road.

Cost: Free

Stop 03.

The 2/28 Peace Park

Just because you’re here for a few hours, doesn’t mean you can’t get deep into learning more about the roots of the place you’re visiting, and 2/28 Peace Park is a profound place to do that.

A few short minutes of walking from CKS will deposit you at a significant (and starkly contrasting) cultural landmark, known as 2/28 Peace Park.

The February 28th massacre this park is named for was one of the defining moments of Taiwan’s modern history, which led to 38 years of martial law in Taiwan.

I highly recommend you do more research to brush up on the nuances of these events, but here’s a quick background on a dark period in modern Taiwanese history:

After the Japanese lost power in Taiwan in the 1940s, the Republic of China (ruled by the Kumintang - the Chinese Nationalist Party) took power under Chiang Kai-Shek and assumed most seats of power. On the evening of February 27th, two officers assaulted an older woman who was illegally selling cigarettes, and when the nearby crowd intervened, things turned violent with one officer firing into the crowd and killing a bystander.

The next day (2/28), Taiwanese protestors gathered to demand accountability, greater representation in government, free elections, and a number of other items detailed in their list of 32 Demands. It sparked riots and protests across Taiwan, with civilians effectively taking control for a short time. Chiang Kai-Shek, however, marched his army north, ransacking homes and firing indiscriminately at Taiwanese people in an attempt to terrorize them into submission. Beheadings, mutilations, and other violence was common. For three days the massacre continued, with estimates suggesting anywhere from 10,000 to 30,000+ dead as a result. Martial law was declared by the KMT and was held in effect for a generation until 1987 in a period known as the White Terror.

The 2/28 Memorial Museum and Park provide more information on this path to democracy and a painful period in recent memory of older generations of Taiwanese, many of whom lost relatives and still don’t know what happened to them, to this day. 2/28 is in every way the polar opposite of Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall, and provides a solid cultural counterpoint to visit following your time at the CKS Memorial Hall.

Location: Gongyuan Road 公園路, Zhongzheng District, 台北市 100, Taiwan

How to Get There: Walk 10 minutes from Liberty Square Arch at the Western edge of CKS Memorial Hall

Cost: $30 NT ($1.05 USD) if you want to enter

STOP 04.

Dongmen Market

Taipei is well-known for its markets, especially its night markets. However, the Dongmen Market (also known as Dongmen Pedestrian Street or Laojie) is a great “day” option and it’s right behind CKSMH. While the market is famous for finding everything from knockoff Nikes to snacks to souvenirs, take the opportunity to pick up some local fare for a snack or breakfast from the food vendors.

Address: No. 81號, Section 2, Xinyi Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100

How to get there: Walk from Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall or 2/28 Peace Park, or take the metro to Laojie Station, exit A.

Cost: Technically free (but you’ll want to buy some food and maybe some souvenirs)

daan-forest-park-taipei-itinerary-layover

Stop 05.

Daan Forest Park

I stopped into Daan Park on a Saturday, and happened to stumble upon an awesome street fair with families and friends picnicking and enjoying delicious food from the pop-up street market.

If you don’t happen upon an impromptu market, it’s still worth taking a short detour en route to your next stop to enjoy Taipei’s “lungs of the city” -- similar to New York’s Central Park or London’s Hyde Park.

It’s a nice place to sit down for a break and immerse yourself momentarily into a slice of everyday Taiwanese life in the city. Rest up because you’ll be on your feet for a while after this!

Location: Daan Forest Park, Section 2, Xinsheng South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan
How to Get There: Walk 10 minutes down Section 2, Xinyi Road from Dongmen Market
Cost: Free

Stop 06 (Option 1).

Jianguo Jade & Flower Market
(Weekends & Holidays)
(建國假日玉市)

Note: this market only runs on holidays and on Saturdays & Sundays, 9am - 6pm

I was lucky to be in Taipei on a December Saturday because on weekends and holidays, huddled beneath an overpass of Jianguo Elevated Highway, you’ll find an expansive indoor jade market filled with rows and rows of tables.

You’ll find everything here - vendors are hawking every type of jade imaginable, along with pottery, statues, jewelry, stones, and other trinkets. This is a great place to pick up a memento of your time!

Unlike normal stores, it’s acceptable to (politely) bargain here, so if you find a piece you like, try using Google Translate (or your own skills) to respectfully haggle.

I had a great time chatting with the vendors via the Translate app, in search of a jade panther figurine. We were able to politely haggle and I found something close (a tiger) that’s still one of my favorite travel mementos, along with a bunch of gifts for friends.

Right next door, you’ll also find the flower market. It’s nothing particularly special to write home about, but there are some pretty gardenscapes set up by vendors.

Address: Jianguo Elevated Road, Da’an District, Taipei City, 106

How to Get There: Walk 10 minutes from the northeastern edge of Daan Park down Jianguo Elevated Road from Daan Park or Dongmen Market. The markets are a 15 minute walk from Dongmen Station.

Cost: Free admission, but budget a little something for gifts and souvenirs

Pro Tip: Stroll through the nearby Taiwan Contemporary Culture Laboratory for a taste of contemporary art and culture.

Stop 06 (Option 2).
Wistaria Tea House

If Jade isn’t your thing, or the markets are closed, visit this historic teahouse reminiscent of Japanese rule in Taiwan (it even housed the Governor-General of Taiwan under the Japanese before becoming government dormitories under Chinese administration in 1950).

The building became a teahouse in 1981 and was a popular meeting place for dissidents who fought for democracy in Taiwan in the 80s. Today, it remains a popular meeting place for Taipei literali, artists, and thought leaders and has been designated a historic monument.

Address: No. 1, Lane 16, Xinsheng South Road Section 3, Daan District, Taipei, Taiwan
How to Get There: Walk 5 minutes from the Southwestern edge of Daan Forest Park down Section 3, Xinsheng South Road
Cost: $300 NT ($10.45 USD) for tea and/or $390 NT ($13.50 USD) for entrée, side, soup, dessert, and rice.

Note: Wistaria is closed between 2pm and 5:30pm.

LUNCH STOP (Option 1):
Din Tai Fung for Dumplings

You’ll be headed to a night market for dinner, so for a world-renowned local taste, head to Taipei’s highly celebrated Shanghai-style dumpling shop (or xiaolongbao). It’s been named one of the 10 best restaurants in the world by the New York Times, and while it’s now a worldwide franchise, this is the location that started it all!

Location: 194 Xinyi Rd, Sec 2, 信義路二段194號
How to Get There: Take Exit 5 from the Dongmen MRT Station
Cost: Dishes range from NT $90 - $260 ($3.15 - $9 USD)

LUNCH STOP (Option 2):
Healthy Lunch (Gluten-Free and Plant-Based)
”Plants” Eatery

If you are blessed with an ability to eat gluten (which means soy sauce), then I highly recommend trying more local food and getting lunch from the street markets for a real local taste.

However, if (like me), you have dietary restrictions, the best gluten free restaurant I found in all my research was a delightful spot called Plants.

All dishes at Plants are plant-based, gluten-free, egg-free, dairy-free and no refined sugar added.

I ordered a turmeric latte and a spiced lentil + rice bowl with soup that was just what I needed to refuel and warm my cold bones on an overcast and chilly day.

Bonus: there’s wifi if you didn’t pick up a SIM card!

Address: No. 10號, Lane 253, Section 1, Fuxing South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
How to Get There: depends on your previous stop!
Cost: $80 - $350 NT

Afternoon

Now that you’ve refueled during lunch, get ready for an afternoon packed full of epic views of the city at its iconic landmarks, including the world’s (formerly) tallest building Taipei 101, a short hike to epic views of the city, and a visit to the fabled Night Markets before you return to the airport.

NEXT STOP:

TAIPEI 101

Until it was eclipsed by Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, Taipei 101 was the world’s tallest building. Constructed to resemble an enormous bamboo stalk, the building is an impossible-to-miss icon of Taipei that offers panoramic views of the city below.

Take the 1010m-per-minute elevator and climb the 89 floors to the observation deck in 40 seconds. An outdoor deck on the 91st floor is occasionally open for visitors, weather permitting.

Location: TAIPEI 101, No. 7, Section 5, Xinyi Rd, Xinyi District, Taipei City, Taiwan 111
How to Get There: Walk 35 minutes from Plants/Jade Market or take the MTR red line (Tamsui-Xinyi Line) from Daan Station to Taipei 101/World Trade Center Station. You can also take the MTR Blue Line (Bannan Line) from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station to Taipei City Hall Station (20 mins).
Cost: NT $500 ($18 USD) (incl. 2 kids under 12 for free) + a free drink at the food court

If, like me, observation decks aren’t your thing and you’d rather save your money, I recommend skipping Taipei 101 itself in favor of a better view of it at…

Elephant Mountain Taipei Layover Itinerary

PENULTIMATE STOP:

Elephant Mountain Hiking Trail

For the best views of Taipei (and that truly insta-worthy shot 😉), make the trek to the top of Elephant Mountain.

This is the best time of day to hike the trail (late afternoon), because you can catch the sunset and a gorgeous nighttime view.

The hike itself takes around 15-20 minutes to the top and includes more than a few stairs. Bring water!

(PSST - remember to take a left at the fork in the path! After about 10 minutes, there will be a rest area with bathrooms and the path branches off here)

Address: Xiangshan Trail, Alley 342, Lane 150, Section 5, Xinyi Road, Xinyi District, Taipei City, Taiwan 110
How to Get There: From Taipei 101, walk east on Xinyi Road for 2 blocks until you reach MRT Xiangshan (end of the red line), then turn right on Songren Road for 3 blocks. Turn left on Alley 14, Lane 150, Xinyi Road. Just before the dead end, turn right onto Alley 342, Lane 150, Xinyi Road. You’ll find the trailhead across from the Buddhist temple.
Cost: Free!

LAST STOP: Dinner at the Night Markets

Taipei is one of the best street food cities in the world (especially for snacks) and is known for its night markets, and while we could spend weeks touring these evening beauties, these are both easily accessed by MRT with limited time, and offer one touristy, one slightly-more-local, and one local-preferred option.

Taiwanese Street Foods to Try: black pepper buns, BBQ squid on a stick, stinky tofu dumplings, noodles, beef noodles, oyster omelets, and meat pockets.

1. Option 1: Ningxia Night Market

Best for: This is one of the busier and more traditional markets. Unlike Shilin, it’s generally not overcrowded. Street snacks, no-frills local favorite (with some games). Small and compact, one lane that takes about 20 mins to get down (and another 20 back).

How to Get There: Closest MRT station is Zhongshan (green line)

2. Option 2: Shi-lin Night Market

Best for: The Times Square of night markets - touristy, but worth the visit for the sheer scale and frenetic energy. (This is the one I went to) This is the largest and most famous night market in Taipei with nearly 15 blocks of stalls selling everything from food, tee shirts, and cell phone accessories to novelty penis cakes. I found that the key here is to peruse the stalls (try not to get sucked in) to get a taste, then head to the restaurants at the outskirts for some of the best food in the city. The experience is a sensory overload, but wildly entertaining. I made the happy mistake of going on a Saturday, and everyone from local Taiwanese to tourists were making the rounds.

Must try: Hot Star fried chicken, traditional Taiwanese desert shops outside the market, oyster omelet, black pepper buns, and the penis cakes (if you must)

How to Get There: Closest stop is the MRT station of Jiantan (red line). It’s easy to follow the crush of people from there. Prepare your senses to be overwhelmed.

3. Option 3: Linjiang Street Night Market
(also called the Tonghua Night Market)

Even though this market is closest to Taipei 101, Tonghua is surprisingly un-touristy. It’s easy to access (especially if you skip Elephant Mountain) and has pretty much everything (except for the spectacle-factor of Shilin). The peanut brittle, pan-fried buns (sheng jian bao) and cilantro “burrito” are pretty famous.

How to Get There: Take the MRT red line to Xinyi Anhe and walk south to Linjiang St.

taoyuan airport welcome how to spend a layover in taipei

FINAL STOP: Airport (Allow at least 1 - 1.5 hrs to arrive at the airport)

Using your pre-booked MRT ticket (or purchasing a new one), head back to the airport in time for your flight!

From Ningxia Market: Walk 12 minutes to Taipei Main Station and take the Purple Line (Jichang Line) headed to Airport Terminal 2. Ride for 37 minutes, then exit at Airport Terminal 1 Station.

From Shilin Market (the journey I took): Take the MRT Red Line (Tamsui-Xinyi Line) from Xiangshan Station for 11 minutes to Taipei Main Station. Transfer to the Purple Express Line (Jichang Line) headed to Airport Terminal 2. Ride for 37 minutes, then exit at Airport Terminal 1 Station.

From Linjiang (1 hour): Take the Red Line (Tamsui-Xinyi Line) from Xinyi Anhe towards Tamsui Station for 12 minutes. Exit at Taipei Main Station, then transfer to the Purple Express Line (Jichang Line) headed to Airport Terminal 2. Ride for 37 minutes, then exit at Airport Terminal 1 Station.

Remember to collect your items from your storage locker! Check in to your second flight if you haven’t already. If you have lounge access, I highly recommend taking a shower before your next flight. And if you have any leftover NT, I highly recommend spending it on an airport massage ($10 USD bought me a 15 minute massage with a big strong guy who was deeply concerned at how bad my back was by the end of the day -- trust me, it was an excellent use of my last dollars).

Post-shower in the private lounge bathroom, thanks to Priority Pass.

And that’s it! You’ve managed to squeeze an expert day of sightseeing in Taipei into a few short hours. At this point, you’re probably tuckered out so grab that eye shade and your blanket and settle in for a good sleep.

Bon voyage!

Have you been to Taipei on a layover (or longer)? Anything you would add or change? Chime in below!

How to Spend a Perfect Day (or 17-Hour Layover) in Taipei, Taiwan